Premium Member Bonus Articles
Bonus Articles
These Bonus articles are available for Premium Members only.
They are NOT posted on the main part of my website.
They are shorter and more bite-sized than my regular articles.
As of autumn 2025, I post 3 bonus articles per month.
Exclusive content like this is one more reason to be a Premium Member.
Thanks for supporting my website!
In your favorite climbing area, there's probably a small group of dedicated volunteers with one goal: trying to put in good hardware to keep you safe. Find out who these fine folks are and support them in whatever way you can.
Check out this elegant alpine anchor from IFMGA Guide Marc Hanselman. While no anchor is perfect for every application, in the right rock type this one is pretty sweet.
The Petzl Tibloc is great as a micro ascender for going up a rope. But did you know you can also use it as a progress capture in a hauling system? Here’s a slick way to set it up that's compact, efficient, and uses some fairly common gear.
In a perfect world, every bolt that you clip would always be reliable. Unfortunately, as a recent tragic accident in Greece has shown, even a two bolt anchor is not always 100% trustworthy. Here's a quick field check you can do that goes beyond looking and hoping.
On a long multi pitch climb, saving a few minutes at every belay transition can really make a difference at the end of the day. Here's one easy way to do this. (Yes, the little things add up!)
Progress capture pulleys like the Petzl Traxion are excellent pieces of gear, that are solid and reliable in most situations. However, in these examples, it can fail to grab. Watch the videos here. And read that Petzl manual!
Are you multi pitch climbing a steep route without much of a ledge at the belay? That hanging belay is probably gonna hurt a bit. Here's an easy way to make it suck a little less.
How can you keep snow from getting jammed in your Traxion pulley? Here’s a simple solution.
Do long, complicated “safety check” acronyms have you scratching your head, when you should be paying attention to your climbing systems? Yeah, me too. Here’s a rappel safety check method that might make a lot more sense.
Sometimes your auto block / rappel backup is either too tight on the rope, or too loose and doesn't grab. Here's a quick trick to fine-tune that adjustment so you get a nice smooth rappel.
Most climbing ropes come in lengths that are a multiple of 10, typically 60 or 70 meters. The Petzl PURline comes in a rather odd length of 65 meters. Why is this? I asked Petzl; here's the answer.
While ice climbing might feel more secure when you bury your pick halfway with every swing, doing this has a lot of drawbacks. Edelrid introduces what they call the “Low Impact Style”, a more refined technique. Their real world testing shows that delicate pick placements are stronger than you might think.
Good rule in climbing: avoid having anything hanging below your knees, because it'll trip you up. Here's a simple way to shorten up your personal tether, such as a Petzl Connect Adjust - tie a slipknot.
Standard 3:1 hauling rigging calls for some sort of a rope grab (like a friction hitch) on the load strand. Guess what: you actually don't need one! Here's how to rig it.
How strong does a rappel anchor really need to be? Good news, not very strong! Here are some real world testing numbers with climbers of different weights, static and dynamic ropes, and various degrees of jumping around.
Is your shell jacket starting to wet through? Might be time to give it a special wash with some Nikwax (or similar) products. Here's how to do that, step-by-step.
Need to build an anchor on cam placements, want the security of locking carabiners, but you don't have any? Not a problem if you know this anchor trick.
The Evil Rope Twist gremlin decided to pay you a visit, and you have a snarled mess of pigtails in the rope in the middle of a multi pitch. Here's how you get those out.
The vector pull, long a #CraftyRopeTrick for whitewater rescue, has some climbing applications as well. Learn ‘em here.
Does your rappel end on the ground (with lots of extra rope)? Those stopper knots in the ends of the rope are no longer needed. The first person down has a simple task - untie ‘em.
Proper training for your first big wall involves lots of rope ascending and related skills like cleaning, lowering out, and other rope trickery. Here's a simple way to set up a practice session with you and your partner to always stay secure.
Does rappelling off of a single strand of cord give you a warm fuzzy feeling? No, me neither. Here's a quick way to back it up.
Tying knots in any sort of rope or cord decreases the strength of that material. Usually, we think that strength can't be reduced more than about half. But there's one unusual case where you can lose almost 75% of the strength of a sling; check it out here.
It's often helpful for your trad anchor to be able to take a strong upward pull. Here's a fast and simple way to do this with minimal gear.
If you’re using a knotted sling or a sewn loop PAS as a rappel tether, here's a simple way you can easily connect to two bolts if you need to. (Redundancy, yeah!)
Rappelling through a minefield of loose rock is scary! Here are two techniques to hopefully reduce your risk.
Do you have a welded stuck knot that needs to get untied? Before you reach for the pliers, try this.
When you're setting up a mechanical advantage hauling system, the “Rule of 12” can help keep your pulling force properly matched with the strength of the gear.
If you run out of gear, mojo, or daylight on a long aid pitch, you might need to retreat back to your lower belay. Here's how do that with a minimum of risk and hassle.
Yes, your big wall haul bag is already pretty stout, but even heavy-duty gear can benefit from some extra reinforcement. Here’s a straightforward and effective way to strengthen it further.
Are you concerned about getting chalk on your rope? I wasn't, until I saw this testing video from Edelrid. Short version, chalk can be bad, and it's a good idea to wash your rope regularly.
When multi pitch climbing, you want to be sure your pack is secure at the belay. Here's a simple way to do that.
Yes, Petzl has a warning about it, and yes, it weakens the carabiner. But, is it something you should worry about? Get the break test results here.
Yep, stuck rap ropes suck. The “rubber band” is a #CraftyRopeTrick to (hopefully) get your rope down.
Next time you're feeling less than thrilled about hanging off of that single sling, here's a good visual reminder of how strong it actually is. It. (Hint: it’ll hold 22 people who probably weigh more than you do. )
Learn some of the pros and cons to both block and swing leading.