Get to know your LCO (Local Climbing Organization) 

 
 
 


Who maintains the anchors where you climb? Get to know and support these good people.

Many of us, myself included, often take bolts and anchor hardware for granted at our local crag. Sort of like critical utilities (electricity, water, internet?) they're always available when you need them, and most of us don't give much thought as to how they got there.

At most climbing areas in the United States, hardware is installed and maintained by small groups of dedicated and hard-working folks who have ONE noble mission: trying to save your ass!

In my neighborhood in Bend, Oregon, this is the High Desert Climbing Alliance @highdesertclimbers.


Awhile back, I went to my first volunteer re-bolting session with them at Smith Rock. I learned a lot.

  • The main lesson: five piece expansion bolts are a substantial hassle to remove, and, at least at Smith, glue ins are the way to go. Check out those sweet new ones in the photo above.

  • My sport climbing harness sucks for hanging hours at a time, maybe bring a bosun’s chair next time.

  • Be useful when you can, stay out of the way when you can't, don’t drop anything, and bring cookies.

  • The big wall gear bag I donated from @highmountaingear works great for hauling up cookies and bolting hardware.

Donate what you can to help them out, whether that's your volunteer time, gear, or money. Asking around at local climb shops is probably the best way to find your LCO.

 
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Fixed point belay - step by step changeover

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A simple, strong alpine anchor