Fixed point belay - step by step changeover
These diagrams are from the excellent book “Alpine Rock Climbing Handbook” by Austrian Guide Jürgen Reinmüller. Connect with Juergen on Instagram, @alpinstil.at, and get his book here (printed version in German, eBook in English). Diagrams are shared with permission.
The fixed point belay is slowly becoming more common in the US. It has some advantages, especially if there is a high chance of a fall onto the anchor on a multi pitch route.
I have a detailed article on the fixed point belay, you can read it here.
image: climbgermany.com / Georg Sojer
A common question: what are the transition steps for bringing up your partner, securing them, and then heading out onto the next pitch, belaying directly from the anchor the whole time?
It’s a better show than a tell; here’s a series of nice diagrams from Jürgen Reinmueller, @lpinstil.at showing one way to do it.
Jürgen is an Austrian guide who published the “Alpine Climbing Handbook” in both German (printed) and English (eBook). It's a terrific book, you can buy it here.
A few notes . . .
This diagram shows the anchor as a single bolt. Common in some parts of Europe, not in the US.
The leader is bringing up their partner with a Munter hitch. You could use any sort of guide style belay device here if that's your preference.
In this example, the partners are block leading, with the same person leading several pitches in a row. This same system could easily be changed for swing leading.
1 - Leader belays their partner up to the anchor, here with a Munter hitch.
Image: “Alpine Rock Climbing Handbook” by Jürgen Reinmüller
2 - Partner arrives at anchor. Partner clips a locker to the master point carabiner and ties a clove hitch. Partner is now secure and off belay.
Image: “Alpine Rock Climbing Handbook” by Jürgen Reinmüller
3 - The Munter hitch is removed from the gray carabiner.
Image: “Alpine Rock Climbing Handbook” by Jürgen Reinmüller
4 - The second (on the right) puts the lead climber (on the left) on a fixed point lead belay with a munter hitch on the gray carabiner.
Image: “Alpine Rock Climbing Handbook” by Jürgen Reinmüller
5 - The lead climber unties their clove hitch, removes the carabiner, and starts out on the next pitch.
Clean, fast, simple!
Image: “Alpine Rock Climbing Handbook” by Jürgen Reinmüller