How does the “Twist Test” reveal sketchy bolts?
This diagram is from the excellent book “Alpine Rock Climbing Handbook” by Austrian Guide Jürgen Reinmüller. Connect with Juergen on Instagram, @alpinstil.at, and get his book here (printed version in German, eBook in English). The diagram is shared here with permission.
A tragic 2026 accident in Kalymnos Greece is a reminder that even a two bolt anchor is not necessarily always reliable.
Can you trust that bolt? Looking at it can only tell you so much.
For a more “kinetic” test, clip a carabiner to the bolt as shown, grab the gate side, and give it a twist to apply some extra leverage.
The bolt shouldn’t move. If it does, start looking for ways to back it up.
Don't do this with anything larger than a carabiner or you might damage an otherwise good bolt.
image: from “Alpine Rock Climbing Handbook” by Jürgen Reinmüller
Here's a nice Instagram video from IFMGA Guide Jan Schneider @bergfuehrer_schneider showing how it’s done.