Multi pitch efficiency: Leader organizes the rack

 

This tip is from AMGA Certified Rock Guides Lani Chapko and Sam Boyce, theclimbingguides.com. Connect with them for guided trips and clinics, including big wall instruction. Instagram: @the_climbing_school, Lani: @goatsonropes, Sam: @chossdiaries


On a multipitch, you can save transition time by organizing the gear and getting it ready to hand off for the next pitch.

An easy way to do this: remove gear from your harness, clip it to a sling, and then clip the sling to an accessible spot for your partner.

  • If you don't have much gear left, you can clump it all together on one sling.

  • If you want be more tidy, tie a couple of knots in a 60 cm sling, and clip different flavors of gear to the different loops.

 

Why does this work well?

  • You don't have to pass gear hand to hand, reducing the chance of dropping gear.

  • Lets the second get busy racking as soon as they arrive.

  • If something gets dropped, it’s the fault of the second not the leader! =^)


Here's a short Instagram video from Lani and Sam showing how it's done. A 30 second transition, impressive!

 
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