What's the max load you can put on a rappel anchor?

 
 
 

Do you ever wonder how strong your rappel anchor needs to be?

Answer, not very strong. Even if you bounce around like a special forces cowboy and weigh almost 100 kg / 200 pounds, turns out that anchor is not gonna see more than about 3 kN, tops.

If you rappel fairly normally on a dynamic rope, the anchor shouldn’t see much more than your body weight.

The chart below comes from a nice article from Black Diamond with a collaboration from IFMGA Guide Mark Smiley. It's a good read, here's a link.

Also, in the article is an interesting test of different sorts of buried deadman snow anchors. (Hint, you want to bring a 2 x 4.)

 
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