The better hanging belay: improvised foot stirrups
On one of my first multipitch climbs, I quickly learned how much hanging belays can suck.
Without any sort of a ledge to stand on, all my weight was on my harness. My kidneys slowly merged into one, and my feet went numb.
After that uncomfortable day, I came up with this little trick. It's been a help ever since.
Here's a tip for a better hanging belay: foot stirrups.
On the backside of your rope connection to the anchor, tie a friction hitch.
Take a sling, ideally a wider nylon one, and tie an overhand knot in the middle.
Clip a carabiner “into” this overhand knot.
Clip the carabiner and sling to the friction hitch.
Now put your feet into each loop of the sling! =^)
Done! Give yourself a high five. Now your weight should be a lot more balanced between your harness and your feet. It's not like lounging in a portaledge, but it's a lot better than hanging completely off of your harness!
The friction hitch makes it easy to adjust the height of the foot loops up and down; occasionally changing your foot position makes it more comfortable.
Here's a close-up of the sling, carabiner, and friction hitch. Note how the carabiner is clipped “inside” the overhand knot. This keeps the two arms of the sling from sliding around.
