Multidirectional gear anchor

 
 
 

In some situations, it can be good practice to be sure your gear anchor can handle a strong upward pull. 

  • As in the diagram below, when you're doing a fixed point lead belay off the anchor.

  • You have a heavy climber and a lightweight belayer, and there's a chance of the belayer getting launched into the air when they catch a fall.

Bolts, of course, are multidirectional.  Cams, to a lesser degree, are also multi directional because they can usually pivot if the direction of force changes. 

Most passive gear, like stoppers, are usually not multidirectional. In a typical anchor, they might be great for a downward pull, but have very little security if they suddenly take an upward pull. 

There are a few ways to do this. Assuming you have some kind of gear placement down around your feet that can take an upward pull, this method is simple and effective.

  • Clove hitch yourself to the master point.

  • Take the rope from the backside of your clove, and clove hitch it to the upward directional piece by your feet.

  • Voilà, your anchor can now take an upward pull. 

image credit: Georg Sojer / Chris Semmel / VDBS

 
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Redundancy at anchors with a rappel tether