Climbing Tips: Do THIS, not THAT (Part 10)
Premium Members can read the entire article here:
In this article:
Make anchor hardware perpendicular to the rock
Got a big load? Use a butterfly
Bail on a carabiner, not a quicklink
Don't trap the rappel rope ends under a strand
Crevasse rescue - remove snow under your pulley
1 - Make anchor hardware perpendicular to the rock
If you're installing anchors, or improving an existing one, try to rig it so the bottom quicklink, ring, or chain is perpendicular to the rock. Doing this means the rope has less twists and friction when you're pulling it.
Avoid rigging anchors with a standard bolt hanger and single quick link. This rigging makes the quicklink lie flat against the rock, which will probably make the rope much harder to pull, and can cause some nasty rope twists. If you come across an anchor like this, you can add a couple of rings or 8 mm quicklinks to improve it.
The preferred anchor above on the left can still cause rope twists, because there's not a single lowering point. Even better: the anchor below, where the two chains come together to form a single lowering point.
Wondering about those horizontal hangers with a single welded ring? This is why. The horizontal hanger makes the ring perpendicular to the rock, giving you a nice smooth pull.
2 - Got a big load? Use a butterfly
Got a big load? Tie it off with a butterfly instead of a figure 8, or even worse, an overhand. It’ll be much easier to tie after it gets loaded. (Remember this one next time you need to lift El Puerco!)
3 - Bail on a carabiner, not a quicklink
Don't be an inconsiderate knobhead and leave a quicklink behind when you need to bail off a climb. Leave a carabiner instead.
If you're nervous about lowering from one standard carabiner, you can tape the gate closed to make a “cheapskate locker”. Leave a little tab of folded tape so it's easy for the next person to remove.
Quicklinks, even stainless steel ones, can rust or become corroded and be very hard to open for the next person who is unlikely to have a wrench. If you clip a quickdraw over a quicklink that's already on a bolt, and then you fall on that draw, it's possible to put enough leverage on the carabiner to break it, which has happened.
Yes, you may spend an extra on that carabiner instead of a quicklink. Look at it as a bit of a financial punishment for your ambition exceeding ability. Also, think of it this way: the next person on that route will be much happier to find a carabiner on that bolt than a quicklink.
Want to learn how to avoid a stuck rappel rope on low angle rock?
What's a simple trick to keep snow from jamming in your progress capture pulley?
