Hauling systems - Clove hitch can replace a prusik
When you're setting up a more involved mechanical advantage hauling system, such as a 5:1 or 6:1, those often require two rope grabs / friction hitches.
What if you only have one?
Depending on the rigging, you might be able to substitute an actual knot, like a clove hitch, instead of a friction hitch.
Yes, you will have to re-tie the knot every time you reset your system, but if that's what it takes to get your partner out of the crevasse, then that's what you do.
Bigger picture: if you think you might need to set up a 6:1 for any reason, such as two person crevasse rescue, do yourself a favor and bring the right tools, such as a high-efficiency progress capture pulley like a Petzl Micro Traxion, and two short friction hitches.
Below is a 6:1 hauling system.
The system starts with a 3:1 “Z” drag, made with the white rope. then a 2:1 “C” is added on top, with the orange cord.
Typically that orange cord would be clipped to a second friction hitch . . . but it doesn't have to be.
Because this strand of the white rope isn’t under tension when you're not pulling, this connection can be a clove hitch.
When the purple carabiner arrives at the anchor, you need to reset the system. Untie the clove, slide the green carabiner and prusik down the rope toward the load, re-tie the clove on the white rope, and continue pulling.
To learn more about 6:1 systems like this, check out this article.
