Hauling systems - Clove hitch can replace a prusik
When you're setting up a more involved mechanical advantage hauling system, such as a 5:1 or 6:1, those often require two rope grabs / friction hitches.
What if you only have one?
Depending on the rigging, you might be able to substitute an actual knot, like a clove hitch, instead of a friction hitch.
Yes, you will have to re-tie the knot every time you reset your system, but if that's what it takes to get your partner out of the crevasse, then that's what you do.
Bigger picture: if you think you might need to set up a 6:1 for any reason, such as two person crevasse rescue, do yourself a favor and bring the right tools, such as a high-efficiency progress capture pulley like a Petzl Micro Traxion, and two short friction hitches.
Below is a 6:1 hauling system.
The system starts with a 3:1 “Z” drag, made with the white rope. then a 2:1 “C” is added on top, with the dark colored cord.
Note the two friction hitches needed for this setup.
Look at the prusik connecting the dark cord to the white rope. Because this isn’t under tension when you're not pulling, you could make this connection a clove hitch, if you didn't have the material to make this second prusik.
When the blue pulley arrives at the anchor, you need to reset the system. Untie the clove, slide the blue pulley and prusik down the loaded rope toward the load, re-tie the clove on the white rope, and continue pulling.
To learn more about 6:1 systems like this, check out my article.
