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I learned this #CraftyRopeTrick from Brent Barghahn, founder of Avant Climbing Innovations. Connect with Brent on Instagram, @avant_climbing_innovations. He said he learned it from Wilson Cutbirth @wilstone8. Thanks to both for this clever idea.
Here's how to make a low(ish) cost stick clip that’s lightweight, compact, and works great.
Yeah, I know, stick clips are for weenies who can't climb the route “for real”. I guess that's me. Stick clips are also for people who value minimizing risk and maximizing fun. Cool, that's me too! =^)
This version is fairly small and should easily fit in your pack. It’s an option for big wall climbers who may occasionally need a “cheater” stick, but don't wanna bring a giant extendable pole.
It doesn't need to be a fancy carbon fiber probe; plain aluminum works fine. It's probably gonna get beat up a bit, so don't plan on using this for ski touring. I bought a used avy probe on Facebook marketplace for $20.
Avalanche probes vary in length. Get the longest, around 320 cm (125 inches).
(The cheapo probe I got is a standard 240 cm / 96 inches model for more recreational use. I wish it was longer, especially for some of those really high first bolts where I usually climb at Smith Rock.)
Along with the probe, you'll need a Metolius Superclip. (And some tape.)
The Superclip is a device threads onto the top of a painter’s pole. It holds the top carabiner of a quickdraw open, so you can reach up and clip the first bolt.
Cost:
$20 for a used avy probe, and $25 for the Superclip, $45 total
Compare that to around $100 for a designated stick clip
To attach the Superclip to your probe, take some good quality tape (I’m using hockey tape: sticky, grippy, and comes on cool patterns like pirate =^), and put a few wraps around the end of the probe. Once you get enough tape on the probe, push / screw on the Super Clip.
To be sure it stays in place, put on an extra wrap to two of tape around the clip.
Now, go enjoy your sport climb, with no chance of a grounder before you reach that first bolt!
If you use a stick clip a lot, and you have a fairly short walk to your local cliff, then using the standard extendable painter’s pole will probably be more durable over time.
But, if you want a lower cost DIY option, that you might use more occasionally, or for a longer approach hike where weight is an issue, or maybe on a big wall, consider the avalanche probe version.
Here's what it looks like assembled. I put a ski strap around it so it behaves in my backpack.
