Use a slipknot to sling rock horns

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Written By John Godino
 
 
 

A horn or spike of rock (aka “chicken head”), can sometimes be used as protection.

The problem: if you just loop the sling over the top, it's probably gonna lift off as you continue climbing.

Solution: make a slipknot and snug it down on the spike.

  • Tighten it well.

  • Practice tying slip knots one handed.

  • Consider a 120 cm sling.

  • If you think the sling may lift off, maybe clip some heavy gear to it.

  • A clove or girth hitch can work too. Try a few knot flavors and see what work for you.

The nice diagram below is from Jürgen Reinmüller. Jurgen is a guide in Austria, and he’s publishing a book (both German and English versions) in autumn 2025 of alpine climbing tips with lots of additional cool illustrations like the one below. To see more of his nice drawings, and get on the waiting list for his book, give him a follow on Instagram - @alpinstil.at

Image credit: Jürgen Reinmüller, @alpinstil.at

 
John Godino
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