The “4 to 1 ratio” for slings

 
 
 

A general rule of thumb for building a rack: have about a 4 to 1 ratio of single length (60 cm) slings to double length (120 cm) slings.

For an average alpine pitch with mild meandering, maybe eight 60 cm slings, and two 120 cm slings.

Of course, the length of the pitch and how much it wanders around has a bearing what you carry.

Related tip: try to color-code your slings, so all of the 60 cm are more or less one color, and your 120 cm are a different color. This lets you quickly grab the one you need.


Four single 60 cm slings in orange / yellow. One double 120 cm sling in green.

Start with this “4:1” short to long sling ratio and you should be good for most routes.

 
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Raise your master point with a pack

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Dialing in the length of your tether/ascender connection