The “fish eye” anchor
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This article was written with advice and peer review from IFMGA Guide Joshua Jarrin. Connect with Joshua on Instagram, @Joshua Jarrin
Check out this photo.
(If anybody knows the source, please email me so I can give proper credit.)
IFMGA Guide Joshua Jarrin Joshua sent it to me.
I already knew about the rigging on the left, a bowline on a bight for a two piece vertical anchor.
But what about that diagram on the right, for three placements? That got my wheels turning, and I started experimenting . . .
image credit: Joshua Jarrin
A double loop bowline on a bight (aka “BoB”) tied in a 120 cm sling can be a great starting point to build a solid anchor.
That nice round bowline loop? Looks something like a fisheye, I suppose, hence the name as explained by Joshua.
image: By Lowe - Naturalis Biodiversity Center, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=41730469
It's especially useful when you have vertically offset anchors. Clip the fisheye loop to the bottom anchor, and clove hitch the sling to the top anchor. Typically, this is used with two offset bolts or maybe two ice screws.
This is known as a series anchor. All of the load goes onto the bottom placement, and the top placement is for a backup. Equalization, no, redundancy, yes.
Here's a series anchor on two vertical bolts.
What’s cool about the fisheye anchor?
Tie the double loop bowline on the ground. Keep it place and use it all day.
Uses a standard piece of gear (120 or 60 cm sling) that most everybody carries, as opposed to a 180 /240 cm sling or cordelette.
If using bolts that are close together, you can probably use a 60 cm sling.
Efficient use of materials. You can make a solid 3 piece anchor with a 120 cm sling, which normally is kind of tricky.
Unlike a pre-tied quad, this has zero welded knots to untie either on your climb or at the end of the day. Bowlines are easy to untie, even after a bog load.
Unlike a pre-tied quad, this adjusts easily just for anchors that are vertically offset (like the photo above.)
How about a fisheye with three anchor points instead of two?
Let's break this down, step by step.
Step 1: Get out your pre-tied fisheye loop in a 120 cm sling. Place three pieces of gear, ideally fairly close together.
Step 2: Clip the fisheye loop to the bottom piece of gear, which is hopefully the strongest.
Step 3: Girth (or clove) hitch one strand of the sling to the middle and top pieces of protection. Adjust the hitches as needed to minimize slack between placements.
Step 4: Clip master point carabiner into the fisheye loop.
Optional bonus: the extra slack in your sling makes a clip in point for hanging a backpack, rope coils, etc. Tie an overhand in the extra as shown in the photo, if you want to keep everything redundant.
How does the fisheye anchor work in two horizontal placements?
What are some handy things you can do with the extra bit of sling?
What are the pros and cons of a girth hitch versus clove hitch?
How does this compare to the girth hitch master point?
How about a video on how to actually tie it?
