Climbing Tips: Do This, Not That (Part 5)
Premium Members can read the entire article here:
In this article:
First rappeller to the ground - untie the stopper knots
Grigri direct belay from anchor - handle away from the rock
Carry your satcom device securely stowed away, not on your pack strap
Shorten your sewn pocket daisy chain the correct way
Tree anchors - Keep the slings low
1 - First rappeller to the ground - untie the stopper knots
Once you’re on the ground, there’s no reason to have a stopper knots in the rope.
So here's a task for the first person down: untie them!
This completely eliminates the very common problem of the final person reaching the ground, with some relief and maybe distraction, somebody starts pulling the rope, and . . . you see the knot rising above you, maybe out of reach, and you instantly have a Big Problem.
(Ask me how I know about this, I've done it a couple of times!)
If the first person down removes the knots, this will never happen.
2 -Grigri direct belay from anchor - handle away from the rock
When belaying up your partner directly off the anchor with a Grigri, try to rig it so the Grigri handle is away from the rock.
If the Grigri handle is against the rock, it might prevent the cam from properly engaging. It also might be harder to grab the handle if you need to lower your partner.
You may need to add an extra short sling or locking carabiner to do this, depending on the anchor configuration.
3 - Carry your satcom device securely stowed away, not on your pack strap
If you carry a satellite communication device, put it securely in your backpack or maybe a well zippered pocket.
Don't carry it jangling around on your packstrap.
You wouldn't carry your phone bouncing around on your backpack strap attached with only a carabiner. Why would you do it with your satcom device?
Security is more important than accessibility.
I have a detailed article that talks about the pros and cons of different ways to carry your satcom, device; check the link above.
Wanna learn the correct way to shorten your daisy chain?
What are the pros and cons of having an anchor down low near the ground when you're using a tree?
