Sport climbing tip - use a quickdraw for a “fifi hook” rest

 

You are working on a sport route at the upper end of your leading ability. You are practicing dialing all the moves, and don't care how many rest or takes you need from your patient belayer.  Here's a simple tip to give your rope and belayer a break.

Start your climb with a quickdraw clipped to your belay loop.

When you make it to the next bolt above you and clip in your lead rope, you then clip the quick draw on your belay loop into the draw that's holding your rope, on preferably the top carabiner. You can now take a full rest while hanging on your own draw, shaking out your arms, and scoping the next few moves.

(Bonus Tip - fingers pointed up, not down, is the Better Way to shake out. With your fingers pointed up, gravity helps the blood flow faster away from your pumped out forearms.)

This is essentially using the quickdraw clipped to your belay loop as a fifi hook, a device used by big wall climbers to clip in and hang whenever they need a break.

You of course remain on belay the entire time. But because you never called for a take, your belayer is not holding your weight on the rope, giving them a rest as well as not stretching out your rope.

When you're ready to climb again, unweight your quick draw, unclip the top biner, let it hang again from your belay loop, work the next few moves until you get to the next bolt, and repeat if necessary.