Climbing Gear Strength Ratings


Ever wonder how strong that pro or gear really is?  Here’s a list to get you started, and maybe help you win an argument or two.  I’ve wanted to see a list like this for a long time, and after scouring the web and not finding any, decided to make my own. 

Metric notes:  A kilonewton (kN) is a metric unit of force, equal to 100 kilograms, or about 225 lbs.  Ratings are rounded to the nearest kN.

Sources:, tech pages, “The Mountaineering Handbook”, by Craig Connally, published 2005, checking the gear ratings on some of my own stuff and in the local gear shop.

I made two lists. One is gear ranked in descending order, and the other is gear ranked by category (like seeing small, medium and large stoppers all ranked side by side.)

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Takeaways (for me)