The "Swiss cheese" model of risk mitigation

 

The Swiss Cheese model is a metaphor used in safety science. It illustrates how accidents typically occur due to multiple, overlapping failures rather than a single cause.

  • Each "slice" of cheese represents a layer of defense (such as safety measures or procedures) within a system.

  • Each “hole” in the cheese symbolizes a potential weakness or failure.

If a hole in one slice of cheese is covered by a solid part of the next slice, you have a partial problem but is not (yet) a catastrophe.

Even if a slice of cheese is only 5% holes, there’s still a small chance that two holes could align, and that's when you could have a serious problem.


How does the Swiss Cheese model apply to climbing?

This is why we have overlapping and redundant systems / safety checks for critical climbing aspects, such as:

  • The standard partner check before every pitch - knot tied correctly, harness buckled properly, rope threaded the right way in the belay device, all carabiners locked.

  • You rig your rappel, and then get a safety check from your partner. (If you pre-rig, then even the last person can get a safety check.)

  • If you’re top roping and reach the top of the route, check the anchor before you lean back and commit to it.

  • You and your partner each start the trip with a fully charged phone, GPX track file for the route loaded on your preferred navigation app, auxiliary battery and charging cable. At least one of you carries a printed PDF map of the route, and maybe a compass.

The Swiss cheese anchor failure

In each case, if there’s a failure in the first “slice of cheese”, it should be caught by the second safety check or redundant system.

Overlapping safety systems are a key way to reduce risk in dangerous activities. Don't neglect the partner safety checks, no matter how experienced you are.

 
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What's in my pack: big wall gear by Brent Barghahn