Head scratcher: Can you solve this rappel problem?
This noggin-scratcher was solved in real life by Albin Thunander. Albin is a Swedish IFMGA Guide Candidate, and he shared with me the details of how he dealt with this. You can usually find him in the mountains around Chamonix. Connect with Albin on Instagram: @albinthunander.
I first heard of this trick from @tiffany_hensley, thanks Tiffany!
Think you're good at solving climbing problems on the fly? See if you can figure out this one!
Here's the scenario:
You're at the top of a 100 meter cliff.
There are only two anchors: one at the top and one at 50 meters.
You have one 80 meter rope.
There's no way of making other anchors and you can't walk down.
All you have is basic gear, like a harness, belay device, prusik cord and a couple of slings and carabiners. You don't have a Beal escaper, a tagline, or 25 meters of shoelaces or any other fancy gear.
How do you get safely to the ground?
There's no trick answer; no parachute, bouncing, rope stretching etc. It's actually doable and relatively low-risk, without any death techniques using self-releasing knots or taped-open-carabiner-fifi-hook Ninja trickery.
Treat this as more of a math problem, and not a climbing skills problem.
After you think about it, scroll down for a hint. After you read the hint, scroll farther for the answer.
,
,
,
,
,
,
,
,
,
,
.
Hint: You have a knife.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Answer:
Measure 25 meters of rope. Cut it. (If you don't have a knife, you can cut it on a sharp rock, or run a sling back-and-forth through the rope for a few seconds.)
Tie a bight knot at both ends. Clip one end of the 25 meter rope to the top anchor.
Toss the other end of the 25 meter section of rope. (This effectively makes a new “anchor” 25 meters below the top.)
Rap down this 25 meter single strand with the rest of the rope.
Put the remaining 55 meter length of rope through the bight knot loop like a normal rappel.
Get on rappel, pass the knot, and continue down to the anchor at 50 meters. (You have a 25 meter rappel with a 55 meter rope, no problem.)
Pull the 55 meter rope down. Now you have 55 meters of rope and 50 meters to the ground.
Tie or clip the rope to the anchor, and rappel on the single strand.
Give yourself a high five!
You have 25 meters hanging from the top anchor and the remaining 55 hanging from the middle anchor. Yes, you left your rope behind, but you’re safely on the ground and pretty darn clever!
#CraftyRopeTrick for sure!
When you're on the ground looking back up, you should see this:
