Protect a descent with “downleading”
diagram: Andy kirkpatrick from his great book, “Down”, shared with permission
Scenario: Your team needs to descend a tricky section (steep snow / low 5th / 4th class rock). The most skilled climber on the team feels confident they can downclimb it . . . but they’d feel better with some sort of backup.
A #CraftyRopeTrick sometimes called “downleading”, or “belayed downclimbing” can be used to protect the last climber in this situation.
Build a solid anchor. Cams are fine, because you're not leaving them behind.
Give all the remaining protection (cams, nuts, ice screws, pickets) to the second to last person going down.
Tie one end of the rope to the anchor, and toss down the other end.
Then, all but the last 2 climbers descend the fixed rope, by rappelling the single line or by downclimbing protected by a friction hitch.
Here's what happens next.
The second to last climber places protection (snow or rock) as they descend, and then clips the rope to the pro. These placements should be below any tricky moves, not above.
The last person, typically a more skilled climber, unties the fixed rope, then ties the rope into their harness. (Be careful, don't drop it!)
A climber at the bottom puts the top/last climber on belay.
The top climber then downclimbs the pitch, cleaning gear as they come to it, just as if they were “seconding” a route. The gear prevents the last climber from a big fall should they come off. The last climber ideally climbs below each piece of gear before they clean it, to reduce the length of any possible fall.
