If you’re out of slings on a long pitch, get creative - stoppers and other trad gear can be used as runners in a pinch.
You finish pitch 1 on a multi-pitch bolted route, look up, and see some hard moves right off the belay on pitch 2. Here’s a way to safeguard your belay and prevent a possible factor 2 fall.
Every trad climber has been there - Long pitch, lots of pro, and you run out of spare carabiners with only stopper placements between you and the anchor. Can you put a sling directly on that wire? Let's find out.
A unique genre of climbing in Japan is something known as “sawanobori” - following a stream in a canyon upwards, ideally until you reach the source. It's like canyoneering, only in reverse. Watch a fascinating professionally produced 12 minute YouTube video here. Yes, it's about as scary and dangerous as it sounds.
Women - Looking to connect with other women who share your passion for rock climbing and to plan to meet ups, trips, and special events? Check out the Ladies Climbing Coalition.
So, this isn't technically rock climbing, but these two short videos will get your blood pumping. Alternative ways to scary yourself on the iconic and amazing central Oregon rock feature, Monkey Face.
I think this is my new favorite climbing video, and it doesn't even have a climber in it. One more reason to love Metolius gear.
If you have two (or more) cams that are the same size, you can clip the racking carabiners to each other to save some space on your harness gear loops.
On a sport climbing quickdraw, you have a choice with the bottom gate; facing the same direction as the top gate, or opposite? The clever climbers at Black Diamond make a pretty good case for one method.
The sewn pocket daisy chain has a potentially lethal problem if you use it as a leash. Hopefully you're aware of this and have retired yours if you ever used it this way. Good news: it makes a pretty sweet gear sling,
When does a good belayer not belay? Before their partner has made the first clip. Avoid this common beginner mistake.
When a fixed rope is weighted over a rock edge, you can get damage to the rope sheath . . . or worse. Here are a few ways to handle this.
Working on dialing the moves on a sport climbing project, and don't care how many takes you have? Give your belayer and the rope a break by clipping directly to each bolt for a rest.
Use this rock gym employee trick to set up your next outdoor top rope, as long as someone else is climbing there already.
For tagging a lot of routes in one day at the crag, rope bags and tarps are great to keep your rope tangle free and clean. Your Swedish big box store has probably the cheapest piece of climbing gear you're ever going to buy.
Whether you love it or hate it, everyone seems to have some strong opinion of the “pinkie”, the size 0.5 Tri-cam from Camp! Some are even inspired to write a poem about it.
If you have a fixed rope loaded over an edge, giving it some protection can be an excellent idea. Here's how to do it in a few seconds with a 4 foot runner.
The late great Jim Bridwell, Yosemite big wall pioneer, had a unique take on many aspects of climbing. Here's one of his more offbeat contributions - his greatly simplified rating system.
Want to start leading sport routes? Clipping the rope into a quick draw might seem simple when you watch an expert to do it, but there are some subtleties that aren't immediately obvious. Learn a few of them with this instructional video.
Having a standard system to rack gear when you’re cleaning as a second will greatly speed up your climbing efficiency. Here’s a simple way to do this.
Does it seem like that bolt is always J U S T out of reach? How about aid climbing a bolt ladder that must've been drilled by somebody 7 feet tall? Here's your answer: the stiffy quick draw.
When you finish a single pitch sport route, should the last climber rappel off, or be lowered? The debate on this can get pretty hot and heavy, but the momentum is swinging towards lowering. Read why and learn how here.
Don't let your head get big because you can climb “5.11” in the vanity gym. You may be in for a big surprise your first time outside.
You may think that a nut tool is only for the second who’s going to be cleaning the gear. Here's a few good reasons why the leader may want to carry one as well.
If you have a close look at the harness of an experienced trad climber, odds are you’ll find a few tricams. There’s a reason for this. Learn why they may deserve a place on your rack.