If you’re out of slings on a long pitch, get creative - stoppers and other trad gear can be used as runners in a pinch.
This amazing photo project stitches together more than 2,000 images into one single, super high resolution photo of El Capitan. Add onto this redlining of routes and over 2,000 more photos of a climbing team going up the nose, and you have some serious rock climber eye candy.
The “VT prusik”, invented by canyoneering expert Rich Carlson, is increasingly popular with SAR teams and riggers. It has a some big advantages over the traditional perlon cord prusik loop. Learn the two key knots, some applications, and see a video on all the ways to use it.
Need to move your team from a safe spot out to an exposed rappel station? From the crafty rope trick experts at Petzl, here’s one way to do it.
Weather forecasts don't have to be boring. Windy.com shows you worldwide weather patterns at a glance, and also gives pinpoint local forecasts that are easy on the eyes. (Works on mobile devices and shows webcams, too, take that, mountain-forecast!)
The search and rescue (SAR) experts in the National Park Service, with techniques developed over decades of experience, have a technical rescue manual. It's available online as a free PDF download. If you have more than a passing interest in self rescue, this is a good place to take a deep dive.
There may be a few rare times when you need to make a stopper knot semi permanent, but still have a way to easily untie it when needed. Answer: zip tie.
Extending a rappel anchor master point over a ledge can make for an easier rope pull, but a tougher start to the rappel. Rigging a “courtesy anchor” can make things easier and safer for just about everyone. (Sorry there, last person . . . )
You top out on a pitch, and see a perfect tree anchor 10 feet back from the edge. Here's how to quickly rig a stout anchor that will position you in the perfect spot with a ready-made masterpoint to belay or haul.
Part tensioning hitch, part rope sorcery. Plus, it has a great name. You don't need to learn the “voodoo hitch”, but you should. Tie it 10 times, you still probably won't figure out how it works.
The bowline can be a helpful knot for climbers to fix a rope around a tree or boulder. But, many people it tricky; the “rabbit coming out of the hole and running around the tree” thing is not as easy as it might sound. Check out the “snap bowline”, where a slip knot and little bit of rope sorcery semi-magically cause a completed bowline to “snap” into place.
Every climber knows how to tie a water knot in webbing. But, there is a lot more you can do with a length of webbing, and canyoneers know all the tricks. Check out this video by canyoneering expert Rich Carlson to learn a few of them.
One of the happiest moments in climbing is seeing your rappel rope drop freely through the sky down to you. And one of the worst moments is when it doesn’t! Here are a series of steps to consider when you have a stuck rappel rope, and some tips to avoid the problem.
Every trip, summit or not, is an opportunity to reflect, learn and improve. The best way to do this is with an honest talk / debrief session with your partner(s) ASAP after your climb.
A normal response of your body to adrenaline is to narrow your visual focus. Generally, this is NOT helpful when you’re climbing. Read a short cautionary tale, and some simple things you can do to mitigate this.
Want to learn some snow climbing tips from the guy who founded the American Alpine Institute and former president of the American American Guide Association (AMGA)? We thought so. While these are some great tips for beginners, even you crafty veterans may learn a few new things.
Here’s a slick way to quickly rig a 2 person carry / evacuation for a patient with minor injuries in the backcountry.