The “backside clove hitch”? Is that something you might find in a San Francisco leather bar? Nope, it's a new approach to transitioning from climbing to rappelling. It has a host of subtle benefits, and it's a Crafty Rope Trick (CRT) well worth adding to your toolbox.
Trying to build a three piece rock anchor with just one double runner? The “V clove” anchor is a Crafty Rope Trick (CRT) that will let you do this. do just this. Slick!
Need to build a quick 2 piece anchor and all you have left is a shoulder length sling? The SWAMP anchor is your new best friend! Learn it here.
Move over, old school cordelette-tied-in-one-huge-loop. The bunny ears cordelette is an improvement.
Using a cordelette is standard practice for many climbers often build multi piece of gear anchors. But, there’s a few more tricks than the standard set up that can make your life easier. Learn a few here.
Setting up a top rope anchor from above can place you dangerously close to the cliff edge. Here’s a simple and fast way to safeguard yourself whenever you’re working close to a drop off.
Climbing sport routes with a beginner who doesn’t know how to safely clean and lower? Here’s how to rig the anchor with no wear on the fixed gear, and maximum safety for your follower.
Cordelettes - If you want to use one, the first choice is diameter and length. There are some standards, but which one you pick might depend on what kind of climbing you’re mostly doing. (If you climb a lot on snow and rock, you might want to get one for each.)
Hey majority of sport climbers are fine with using to standard quick draws for their anchor. Most of the time, that's probably cool, but for instructional settings or your own peace of mind, you can go one step further and use lockers on everything.
Need to make an absolutely bombproof anchor around a tree, for a rappel or maybe to pull your car out of a ditch? Try this.
The munter pop? Is that some kind of Austrian ice cream? Nope, it’s a very Crafty Rope Trick (CRT) you can use if you ever need to lower someone two rope lengths.
While more of a trick knot used by guides, the auto locking Munter hitch can still be a good tool in your bag of Crafty Rope Tricks (CRT).
The brake knot, designed to add increased friction In the event of a crevasse fall, is the best choice for traveling as a two person team on a glacier.
The water knot, a long-time standard to connect tubular webbing, is not the best choice. Here's an alternative knot that’s more secure.
If you're on multi pitch bolted routes, you really don't need any anchor building supplies. The rope and willingness to learn a new knot or two are all you need.
Need to lower two people at once on a rope, or some really heavy haul bags? The “Super Munter” hitch would be an excellent choice.
The butterfly knot is probably something you didn’t learn on day one of climbing school. But after the basics, it's a good one to add to your toolbox. Learn the four climbing situations where the butterfly knot comes in handy.
The flat overhand knot (formerly known as the European Death Knot, or EDK) is a fine choice for general rappelling. But, if you have ropes of significantly different diameters, are rapping with an extra heavy load, or just want a little extra confidence, here’s an excellent, easy-to-tie alternative.
Does every climber need to know these definitions? No. But for the Type A personality, (which is probably most of us climbers) the difference between these three different terms is actually quite interesting.
Sometimes, to better share the load on an anchor, it's helpful to shorten a sling just a centimeter or so at a time. Here's two nifty ways to do it.